COLUMN: Apple’s history one of work and dreams

The history of the apple—its growth, spread and propagation—is certainly far richer than a mere recitation of dates and places. It tells of men and women who spun fragile hopes and dreams for the future, who courageously conquered new worlds, who planted and harvested year after year even after crop failures.

And such is the story of the apple coming to Canada. It began in the heart of the Annapolis Valley in the early 1600s at a place called Port Royal, one of the earliest European settlements on the continent. It was here on the banks of the Annapolis Basin that Samuel de Champlain and Sieur de Monts built a habitation for a small group of French settlers who attempted to grow foods in the fields surrounding the building; among them was the apple.

When this port was destroyed a number of years later, a small village had already begun across the basin today known as Annapolis Royal. By 1700, it is reported there were already over 1,000 apple trees in this village.

From the gently sloping shores of the basin (an arm of the Bay of Fundy), the growth of apples spread through the rest of Nova Scotia and then to other regions in Canada as the settlers pushed west.

At first there were few species and they were not the juicy tasty fruits we enjoy today. However, through the decades other species of apples were introduced as new settlers arrived on our shores, and through grafting and cross-breeding sweeter and more disease-resistant apples were produced.

Mennonites planted apple trees

It is quite certain that Mennonites immigrating to Manitoba brought apple seeds and seedling fruit trees with them. With memories of lovely luscious orchards they left behind in Ukraine lingering in their minds, they went about planting gardens on the prairies. Establishing flourishing orchards would have been an uphill battle with unsuitable fruit tree species and a short growing season.

Meanwhile, they relied on wild berries and plums gathered from roadsides and river banks to bake their plautz (fruit cake) and perieschkje (fruit pastries). However, with time most gardens in early Steinbach would have had trees with smaller apple varieties (crabapples). One apple tree that has survived until the present was planted in 1906 at the corner of Barkman Avenue and Elmdale Street by Anna Barkman on one of the earliest homesteads.

Not only did the homesteaders enjoy eating apples, they actually needed them. In fall they made juice and cider, pies and crisps. For winter they stored the fruit in root cellars and dried it in rings. By mid-winter when the fresh apples had softened, the frugal homemakers turned what was left into “butter” and what was spoiled went to the livestock as feed. From the wood of the apple tree they whittled out childrens’ toys and even made furniture out of old apple barrels and burned the gnarled roots of old trees for warmth.

Perieschkje are little pies that originate in Ukraine (pirorzhki). Essentially they are little pies that are filled with any manner of fruit (and sometimes with savoury fillings for a main course). There are several different ways of folding the dough to enclose the filling, depending on the way your grandmother did it!

Apple perieschkje

3 cups coarsely grated apples

1 tablepoon fresh lemon juice

2/3 cup sugar

1 tablespoon flour

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon (optional)

Pie dough

Milk and sugar for glaze

Place grated apples in a bowl and immediately stir in lemon juice (to prevent browning). Stir in sugar, flour and cinnamon (if using). Roll out dough to 1/4-inch thick. Cut into 4-inch squares or circles and place 2 tablespoons of filling in the centre. Fold half of dough over filling and seal (or pull in corners of a square and pinch in centre). Brush with milk and sprinkle with sugar. Place on cookie sheet and bake at 375F for 20 minutes or until golden brown.