COLUMN: Faspa persists as light afternoon meal

In the Russian Mennonite tradition, Faspa is the mid-afternoon refreshment meant to tide one over from lunch to supper. The custom began when hard physical work demanded some refreshment three or four hours after the noon meal. So a light repast consisting of Zwiebach (buns) or Schnetje (biscuits), cheese and jam was served around 3:30 p.m. either in the kitchen or on the fields if the men were seeding or harvesting.

On Sunday Faspa was served as well but because no house or farm work was done, it was a little more substantial and became the evening meal. It was a time to invite friends and relatives over to exchange news. Always there were fresh Zwiebach (sometimes made into Kringel or twists), Schnetje or Rasienestretsel (raisin bread)—or all three—with jam or jelly, cheese and cake or Plautz (fruit square). Another specialty that made it to the table only on Sundays was sugar cubes which were dipped in coffee and eaten with Zwiebach.

In the book Mennonite Foods and Folkways from South Russia (Vol. II), Norma Voth writes, “ …grownups were polite and seldom took any (sugar cubes). Children, if they had their way, showed less moderation. But there was usually little choice. They had to do with one little piece beside their cups and saucers.”

I am amazed at how Sunday Faspa has persisted to this day. While on the whole Faspa is more elaborate than it used to be, the simple fare of yesteryear is appreciated by many people.

If you’re hungry for some of these foods of yesteryear, why not invite your neighbours for a Sunday afternoon Faspa? Following are some recipes for you to try.

In the olden days, homemakers saved porridge leftover from breakfast and used it in their yeast breads later in the day. The porridge made for moist loaves and added valuable nutrients. If you don’t have porridge on hand, soak oatmeal in hot water for the same effect.

Old-fashioned oatmeal bread

1 cup oatmeal

2 tablespoons shortening

1 1/2 cups boiling water

1/2 cup warm water

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1 tablespoon active dry yeast

1/4 cup molasses

1 teaspoon salt

4 to 4 1/2 cups all purpose flour*

In a large bowl stir together oatmeal, shortening and boiling water. Allow to stand for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Meanwhile, in a cup add sugar to warm water, then stir in yeast. Allow to stand for 10 minutes or until foamy. Add molasses and salt to oatmeal mixture and stir in foamed-up yeast. Beat in half of flour vigorously by hand or electric mixer, then stir and knead in enough of remaining flour to make a smooth dough. Shape into a ball and cover. Let rise in warm place until doubled in bulk, about 1 1/4 hour. Punch down and knead briefly. Form into 2 loaves and place into greased loaf pans. Cover and let rise until doubled, about an hour. Bake at 375F for 35 minutes or until golden brown and sounds hollow when tapped. Makes 2 loaves.

* Note: You may substitute half of white flour with whole wheat flour.

The art of jam and jelly making was perfected in many households in grandmother’s day. This was one way to preserve the fruits of summer for the long winter ahead. Bread and jam were always on hand when unexpected company dropped in or when the children weren’t quite full at the end of a meal.

Raspberry apricot jam

2 pounds firm ripe apricots

1 1/2 cups raspberries

1/4 cup water

4 1/2 cups sugar

Wash, pit and chop apricots. Place in saucepan and add raspberries, water and sugar. Bring to boil, then cook over medium-heat until jam is thick, stirring constantly. Pour into sterilized jars and seal. Process in boiling water bath for 5 minutes.

Note: The jam will keep nicely unsealed in the refrigerator for 6 weeks.

On Sundays, Moos (cold fruit soup) was sometimes served at a company Faspa. In winter it would be based on dried fruits, but in spring rhubarb Moos was a specialty.

Rhubarb Moos

4 cups chopped rhubarb

1 cup raisins

4 cups water

1 cup sugar

2 tablespoons flour dissolved in 1/4 cup of milk

1 cup cream or whole milk

Cook rhubarb and raisins in water until tender. Stir in sugar and dissolved flour. Cook until mixture thickens. Stir in cream just before serving. Serve warm or cold.

This has been a favourite cake in many households for decades. It goes by several other names—Lazy Daisy Cake and Hot Milk Cake among them.

Featherlight cake

1 cup milk

2 tablespoons butter

4 eggs

2 cups sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla

2 cups flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

Frosting (see below)

Heat milk and butter to boiling in a small saucepan (or in the microwave). In a mixing bowl, beat eggs, sugar and vanilla until blended. Stir in hot milk mixture. Stir together flour, baking powder and salt and stir into batter. Pour into a greased 13 by 9-inch pan and bake at 375F for 30 minutes or until tester comes out clean when inserted in the centre. While still hot spread on frosting. Broil until bubbly.

Frosting: stir together 1/4 cup melted butter, 1/2 cup brown sugar, 3 tablespoons cream and 1 1/4 cups coconut.